Vilken specialhylsnyckel till Rickmanbacker 4001?

[hitman]

SKal försöka hjälpa till med justering av en Rickenbacker 4001. Eftersom den är från 70-talet och dessutom ett mkt bra ex. så är det med viss bävan.

Behöver beställa specialhylsan som man använder till dragstångsmuttrarna. Är det någon av dessa som passar:

http://gitarrdelar.se/index.php?cPath=64_186

[anli]

1/4 tum skall det vara (med tunna väggar helst)
http://gitarrdelar.se/product_info.php? ... 1e7c0de247

http://www.pratabas.se/viewtopic.php?p= ... ight=#2870

[Heyman]

Jag köpte en 1/4" vanlig blocknyckel och slipade ned väggarna, du ska ju inte dra särskilt hår så de håller bra ändå...
Biltemas har så ojämn kvalité på sina snikmodeller så man kan hitta exemplar som knappt behöver slipas till.

[hitman]

Tack för tipsen! Skall försöka fixa en bild på basen som tack, så vi kan hetsa upp oss med lite basporr...

[anli]

Jag köpte en 1/4" vanlig blocknyckel och slipade ned väggarna, du ska ju inte dra särskilt hår så de håller bra ändå...
Biltemas har så ojämn kvalité på sina snikmodeller så man kan hitta exemplar som knappt behöver slipas till.

Japp jag började med exakt en sån. Gamla 4001 kan ju ha muttrarna klämda mot väggen, så man måste lossa med en filad fast nyckel först.
Sedan kunde jag fixa en vanlig bitshållarmejsel (1/4")... jag svarvade hylsan så den blev tillräckligt tunn.

[bassplayer]

*Borttaget*

[Jeppe]

Hej

Så här skriver dom på Rickenbackers hemsida om halsjustering.

Neck Adjustment
Most Rickenbacker guitars and basses are reinforced with twin
truss rods. This exclusive design gives greater strength and stability
to the neck of the guitar. The truss rods are separately adjustable,
allowing either side of the neck to be readjusted independently of the
other, should it become necessary.

Three indications that the neck may require adjustment are: 1) the
strings begin to buzz against the frets; 2) the action of the strings
seems too high; or 3) the truss rods rattle.

With the instrument in tune, sight the neck for a bow or under-bow by
resting the body on a level table at an approximate 45 degree angle
holding the top horn near the strap bolt.

Do not hold by the neck or head, as doing so will change the actual
position of the neck. Should adjustment be necessary,
take the strings out of the nut grooves to allow room to remove
the nameplate from the head of the instrument. After replacing strings
to the grooves of the nut, retune the instrument to assure normal
tension on the neck.

Repeat the sighting step to confirm the amount of bow or under bow in
the neck. Using 1/4 inch nut driver wrench, such as the NW1 neck
adjustment tool, turn only a half a turn at a time. Turn the nut clockwise
to correct an under bow, counterclockwise to straighten an
over bow. Continue this until the desired angle of the neck is obtained.

A slight under bow (relief) is common on non-Rickenbacker instruments
due to their limited range of adjustment. Due to their extreme
adjustability you may prefer to adjust a RIC neck almost dead
straight depending on the playing action preferred.
Finally, replace the nameplate and tune the instrument.

On instruments produced before September 1, 1984, first loosen the
truss rod nuts, then move the neck manually to the desired position
and snug the rod up to hold that position. Do not rely on the rod
itself to provide the bowing force. This advice actually applies to all
guitar truss rod systems. Adjustments other than these can seriously
damage your instrument.

Do not use a socket drive or Thandle wrench as damage may
occur. Nut driver tools generally will slip in your hand prior to truss
rod damage, while these tools can easily permit excessive force to be
applied.

https://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/manual.pdf

/Jeppe